The Sketchy 2001 Bordeaux Vintage
The 2001 Vintage was never hailed as much more than a functional vintage and produced no legends in Bordeaux. The best 2001 I’ve tasted was actually the 2001 Canon-de-Brem, a stunner – hand made beauty. But this wine was mostly just plain delicious rather than awe-inspiring and classic. The first growths are stiffs by comparison, but should turn into something someday. I’m sitting on most of the 2001’s since they seem to need age. But the Canon-de-Brem phenomenon indicated to me that perhaps that the northerly Right Bank would be where most of the good wines were hiding despite the assertions that the area didn’t fare well and the best wines are actually Sauternes. But when you start to see Tetre Roteboeuf and Ausone both made top five wines you have to look around for good picks in the area. The above link of obscure notes might provide some clues.
As the 2001 wines slowly go off the shelf we being to see emerging lagging 2000 wines as well as all the 2002 wines and even some early 2003 wines, especially from the bas-Medoc which, due to the heat, should logically make great wine (as it were) that will be dirt cheap. I suspect that like in 1998 wines from the ordinary appellation Bordeaux will also find success. Any place known for normally making green under ripe vegetal wines should suddenly be excellent. It’s noteworthy to note that Le Pin in Pomerol that naturally makes a rich overripe wine couldn’t manage in 2003. Apparently it was out-of-control.
This means that you have to be on the lookout for wines with a subtle rotten fruit flavor. I’m certain we’ll see a lot of this.
These wines coming into the market cheap will manage to keep the 2002 wine prices depressed making 2002 potentially the last best good vintage selling at below market prices.
Recommended early 2003’s tasted over the past week.
Chateau Loirac 2003 (Medoc) – Available at Sam’s in Chicago. Dark, tasty, rustic, cheap. A winner at around $14 a bottle. (89)
Chateau Haut-Gay 2003 (B. Superieur) – Available at K&L. Highly regarded by the Revue du Vin de France this wine is a stunner. Inky flavorful, obvious use of new equipment. Killer for $13.99. Won’t last long. The gaudy orange label and Chateau name makes it a fun conversation piece too. (91)
Petit Manou 2003 (Medoc) – Available at K&L. This is supposedly the second wine of the smallish Clos Manou. The back label, though, makes it sound as if this is specific to a 1.5 hectare sub-plot. And the wine is sold in wooden six packs which is unusual for any real second wine. And the packaging is superb. Whatever the case it’s a $15 winner. Judicious oak, red fruit classic, atypical of harsh Medoc wine, on par with any fruit-forward wine in the neighboring areas. Surprisingly tasty. Unsure if I have ever actually had a better “Medoc” wine. And ready to drink. Gets bigger and develops black fruit character as it breathes. A winner. Tastes hand-made. (90+)
Chateau Carbonneau Civees Futs de Chene 2003 (Ste Foy) – Available at Vino in Oakland and Berkeley. This $10.95 wine is a total charmer. No pretense, good Bordeaux character. This appellation is very proud and tend to produce fine cost effective wines. Oddbins in Albany, California has the lesser Cuvee (no oak age) of this wine which sells for around $8. It’s not bad either, but this is better. (88)
Recommended 2001
Petit Puch 2001 (Graves de Vayres) – An unusual offering from the right bank available at K&L. At $13.99 a good wine but not spectacular. Not as good as Haut-Gay. I can see buying more, though. (88)
Château d’Agassac 2001 (Haut-Medoc) — A spot on killer. Now sold out everywhere. Goin for around $18 this wine has it all. Very well-made, delicious. (92)
Pagodes de Cos 2001 (St-Estèphe) — Not as good a deal as d’Agassac with similar characteristics. Delicious but not quite as stunning as the 2000. I’d wait for the 2002 which may be cheaper and more powerful. That said I did buy a lot of this wine. Seen at K&L and Costco for around $24-26. (91)
Reignac 2001 (B. Superieur) — Selling for around $17 this wine is almost as good as the 2000 but not as fine as the 2002 which actually costs a dollar more. Seen at Costco. Get the 2002 if you see it. Note that this is the long brown label prestige cuvee. There is a lesser version of this wine you see in Europe and I assume it will be over here too someplace. It’s also good, but not as good as this. (90)
Not Recommended – recent vintages — no relative scores
Chateau Robin 2000 (Cotes de Castillon) – Available at the Wine Club. This wine sells for $11.95 and is not worth it. Enough said. I feel sorry for a Bordeaux winery that could not do well in 2000.
Chateau Haut Nadeau 2002 (B. Superieur) – Available at K&L for $10.99. In theory the right bank wines are not going to do well in 2002, so why would anything from the Entre-deux-mers? Although made by a famous guy with a good story to tell, the wine is not very interesting.